Published on Feb 1, 2013
I've been using wood faceplates instead of metal faceplates with wood scrap blocks. A wood faceplate eliminates the risk of hitting a screw while turning. I can have as many wood faceplates as I want and keep it on the project until the project is complete. I can make any size faceplate that may be needed.
In a recent video making a segmented bracelet, I used two wood faceplates to build up the segment layers from both top and bottom at once. For that project I also used a reverse chucking alignment adapter to hold one faceplate in the tail stock with the other mounted in the head stock. With this mount, I was able to glue in the last middle layer to both at once on the lathe.
In this video, I turn a 6 inch wood faceplate.
1. Mount a blank (poplar) on the face of a scroll chuck.
2. Rough turn the blank to round and smooth the face.
3. Cut a dovetail tenon.
4. Flip the blank and mount to a chuck with the dovetail tenon.
5. Bore the thread hole - 1 1/8" in this case.
6. Thread the hole - A Beall 1 1/4" x 8 tpi tap
7. Relieve hole 1/8 for the spindle base - on both sides. One the face so the faceplate can mount to the spindle in order to cut the relieve on the spindle side of the faceplate.
8. Face off the chuck and it is ready for use.
I'll still use metal faceplates for green bowl and large bowl turning. I like the safety of steel or aluminum in these cases.
Otherwise, I'm building my collection of reuseable, customizeable faceplates.
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Beall taps are great for making wood face plates.
I love the results I have obtained using them ... Monte